TAKE YOUR BOAT
Taking your own boat to India's Andaman & Nicobar Islands can be one of the most rewarding, exciting and memorable trips in your lifetime. My first, even after over 30 years of boating in some of the most exotic tropical destinations imaginable, was awesome enjoyment. And it all went without any major hiccups. Why? Because my friend John Pearce had done it several times, and John believes in doing it the right way. No short cuts, no bullshit, no cheating the locals. This suited my way. So I listened and learned and followed experience. Thankfully, now I have that experience.
I can only implore you to do the same.
PORT BLAIR
Port Blair is an Indian Naval Port of quite busy proportions. Many large vessels ply this route and daily movements are frequent. Yet the Indians remain warmly welcome to selected visiting boaties.
The Port Control is vigilant and remains thoroughly British in its formal requirements... meaning an array of paperwork and procedures which would rival the red-tape of any Government. This in itself is good, it keeps out the unwanted and maintains a certain safe feeling of a bygone era.
BOATIES COMPLAIN
And so every time; and truly, it happens every time: I go into Port Blair Harbour & some boat owner comes over in his Dinghy with tales of woe. About having to go through endless paperwork, about having to concede to what appears to be miniscule regulations, and then ultimately moaning that it has taken 3/4/5 days so far to get clearances before being allowed to go ashore and then to go out of the Port to their next destination.
Maybe this is too hard you think? No, no, no.
It's those visiting people who make it hard, not the Indian custodians of this paradise. It is those boaties just don't want to coexist and comply with a very fair and welcoming Harbour Master system. They want to do it their way.. well its not like this back in "Polluted Land". Easy solution. Don't come.
IT CAN BE EASY
Whoever you decide to assist you... do it the easy way; do it right, use experience and use only those trusted people who can help you smoothly through the administration whirlpool. This is not a sermon, I just want you to really enjoy all of this amazing boating to the fullest!
THE VESSEL MASTER
The important and first step is to have a MASTER of your vessel who is fluent in English (not 'pidgeon'/broken style english) for all communication, written & radio. Radio communication is a vital necessity and must be audible in correct radio terminology (old fashioned correctness) and British politeness. The Master is, and invariably required, to provide his suitable qualifications as a master. Procedure is an integral part of 'Port' Life and so must be adhered to & respected. OK, your vessel is now manned suitably.
CRICKET
The second step is far more important. Cricket. The entire populous is totally obsessed with cricket. Far more than even the Kiwi - New Zealand addiction is with Rugby or the French with ego. A lone tooth-pick is often seen swerving-away very small beads to a 'six' when the participants are relaxing at tables or bar tops. When any match is in progress, EVERY single TV is permanently switched to that channel. If you should have no knowledge of cricket (as I don't) then immediately do a crash-course in the refinements of Indian cricketers. After all, if "mah-hat-mah-coat" (who was an cloak-room attendant before cricket) happens to be playing, then it is of immense benefit that you should be able to at least recount one of his major triumphs as a bowler/batsman/fielder/all-rounder.
This knowledge will ensure an immediate acceptance at any level and you will be flying 'under the radar'. I am particularly lucky being an Australian as even the chicken shop man always proposed a rousing "G'Day Mate" whenever I stop-by. Apparently, Aussie & Indian cricket friendship is as alive and as vibrant as the local coral reefs around here.
ON-BOARD XEROX SHOP
You are going to need a veritable copy-shop onboard. Every imaginable specification and document may sometime be needed. Sadly, I will list just a few to give you an idea. I can supply a detailed glossary when I help you further. I have a sizeable Document File in readiness.
- Radio permissions to enter port and movements
- Designation of anchorage position(s)
- Confirmation of anchorages
- Seeking permission for the various Departments to inspect Vessel & crew (remember those wasting 3/4/5 days)
- Departments include Immigration, Customs, Coast Guard, Port Control & Harbour Master's Office
- On acceptance of all departments, a meeting is convened with the Harbour Master so the Master of the vessel is fully versed with the do's and don'ts of the region. If you are fortunate a dinner with the Harbour Master & Coast Guard Commander may be extended.
- Now those on-board are free to visit Port Blair and the Island archipelago.
- Fuel requirements are applied-for and a certain day, time, quantity and Bunker Approval will be awarded.
THERE'S A LOT MORE
This a non-inclusive list of other documents which will positively be required in a certain format (which I can provide you)
- Current Indian Visas & Passports for all current personnel on board and any future Guests who may join later in the stay of the vessel
- Vessel Port of Registry Book
- Current Certificate of Seaworthiness
- Current Certificate of the Master and the Captain
- List of all Crew and copies of competency
- Complete listing of the Vessel's Hull & machinery
- Listing of all Electronic Equipment on board including serial numbers etc
- Details of 12v / 220v / Gas supplies
- Listing of all Safety equipment including EPIRB serial number
- Listing of all ship's stores. Food, water, drinks, water, fuel etc
- Fishing, Diving equipment, Firearms, Dangerous Goods etc
- Dinghy & Outboard & Fuels & oils
WHERE YOU WANT TO ENJOY
A proposed Itinerary of your daily exploits to the Islands, including Anchorage at each destination are to be offered (as a guide for acceptance or otherwise). This log is recorded both written and verbally daily; the former ultimately being provided at conclusion of the visit for acceptance to leave Port Blair. (leaving is a very sad day not to be dwelled-on)
Daunting? It could be or you may choose an additional "Angel" to assist as I do.
WE HAVE OTHER HELP
Some boaties do everything themselves either of being tight-fisted and/or full of their own importance. It can be done but is saving a relatively small amount on the overall enjoyment of such an adventure worth it? Imagine getting delayed for days and the unpleasant task of having to liberally grease several (at least) official palms. It is simply too problematic. That is why we do the easy and safe way: we have an efficient, respected and honest local agent who has tremendous support with all Authorities and he literally does everything that we, as foreigners, could find next to impossible. We never have a hiccup! For all this wonderful attention, our Agent charges a modest flat fee from the day of arrival to the day of departure. He takes care of the super-pain-in-in-the-ass fuel supply problems and charges just 10% on top of the 'Pump Price' for all the work involved. He even has trusted taxi providers, stacks of local knowledge only a native of the Andamans could possess and is literally our 'right' hand.
HOW I HELP THE OWNER
When I am Master, I arrange everything for the boat owner, I know that the contribution I provide is the most enjoyable result an Owner can expect. As I said at the beginning, this is a trip never to be forgotten. So keep all the memories happy ones! There's nothing quite like being welcomed-back on later visits like an old friend of these obliging people. You feel as though you're home again! December to end April is the only time. Start the plan now; don't leave it.
